Old projects come and gone

I will never cease to be amazed how auto body shops and mechanics can do this type of work day in an day out. It truly must be a passion for what they do. Or maybe just my personality - I want to be finished, but need things to be perfect, so it's hard to start a project where the finish line is so far off.  I guess it is no wonder so many car projects get started and never finish. I have a clear vision of what the Chevelle will be, stock on the outside, nice modern interior and reliable, safe engine, steering and brakes. How does one stay motivated day ofter day when there is only reverse progress towards this goal? I do need to get friends more involved, because it is more fun when you have someone to work with so it is more socialization than work (see the RX7 below).

Case in point, yesterday I took apart the drivers door and got down to the weatherstrip molding.  From working door to empty shell and a box of parts. I know it needs to happen, but I keep thinking, how about a rat rod? But that's not me.  I hope there is a good assembly diagram to put all of the parts back together.  Is it odd of all the bits so far the doors are what have me most worried to reassemble?

I thought it would be fun to make a quick trip down memory lane of my past major projects for those that might not be familiar.  My first project was a '53 Chevy 3100 truck.  I really wanted a project, and had looked at a '68 Buick Wildcat 2-door, '68 Camaro sitting in my parents in law's back yard (they wouldn't sell it to me, too much work needed!), and then this:

 The bad picture is all I have, and the bed is already off.  It was winter and I was so excited to get started.  I had no money, (okay a little) but plenty of enthusiasm.  I remember driving it how with no heater, and a 216 cubic inch motor with a 4-speed that topped out at 40 mph.  I took it to body shop classes at Kirkwood to learn how to do body work, and hired someone to do the motor.  I learned so much on this project, and probably more what not to do.  I should have done this the other way around, engine myself and body to a shop, what we are doing with the Chevelle.  The shop welded on a '79 Camaro front subframe, which in 1990 was the way the swaps were being done.  Terrible idea.  A 350 ci Chevy small block was installed.  I went off to college, and the project ended because of time and money.  Jay and John Kurth picked it up for a while, and eventually it was sold to someone who was going to finish the project.

 Here is the one picture I have of John showing Jay and I how to install the rear window.  Sorry John for roping you into this project. You were a great teacher and I am fortunate for everything you taught me.

 This is how the truck looked when I had to stop.  Obviously not finished. I did do all of the body work that you see, not bad for a first try, but also not great either. I love the lines on these old Chevy trucks. Note the blue Geo Storm paint, you will see it below.

The next project was born of necessity.  Jill and I had big greyhounds and no money, so we needed a big vehicle to take them to the park.  We found a '79 Suburban 3/4 ton 2WD USDA-spec for $600 and got started.  It was a basket case and should have been in the junkyard.  It had been beaten hard and never drove right, even after we replaced everything in the suspension and steering. I could never figure this out, and to my credit, neither could any mechanic that looked at it. Again terrible pictures, but you can see a before and a 90% done picture.  I think the only parts I salvaged were the hood, rear side doors, and roof.  I had the wood bed parts left from the '53, so I used those to build the bed floor.  I bet this was the only suburban with a wood bed floor.  I rebuild the 350 motor and did all of the body work myself.  It turned out okay for something I did in my garage.  I even painted it in the garage, and Jay helped me polish it out. We found replacement 16.5" wheels (yes, 16.5") and I powder coated them myself.  They turned out great.

 Just to prove it ran, here we are in the Badlands with the new motor and body work done.  I painted the hood and doors before we drove it to Oregon, using the left over paint that was meant for the '53. On our way back from this vacation, one of the wheel bearings seized on the interstate.  Thankfully Jay was driving and his lightning reactions prevented us from having a serious accident.

 Oregon projects were limited to engine work.  I had learned by now I was better at bolting things together, and didn't have the patience or skill to do body work well.  Andrew bought a '93 Rx7 and an LS1 motor, and said we can put the two together.  Well, we did over lunch times with Little Caesars pizza and beer.  It fit and we got it running.  This car was an absolute monster with the LS1.  I think Andrew drove it this way for a few years, and then decided to put in a bigger motor.

 My baby at the time was a '92 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD.  I had been slowly upgrading the the suspension and motor, and it broke a timing belt on the way to the drag strip in Oregon.  At the time it was running 13.1 in the quarter mile.  I rebuilt the motor as a 2.3L stroker with all the goodies and race ported head. We brought it to St. Louis, where I pretty much lost interest in working on cars and focused on work.  There it sat for the next six years.

 This spring I started working on getting the Talon tuned, and drove it a couple times to work.  The transmission of all things was in limp mode (stuck in third gear), but the engine was running really good.  I'm biased, but I think this is one of the nicest 1992 Talon's you will find in 2011.  I sold it for way less than what it was worth for the chance to have the Chevelle.  (Max, I hope you enjoy this car!). Jill says only one project at a time, and I have to admit she is right.

Test fitting the LS1

I'm still in deconstruction mode this week, but getting closer to reassembly. The frame is completely stripped down and ready to get sandblasted and painted.  The big new this week is that I think we have selected a shop to do the body work.  Jack from Specialized Collision stopped by and took a look, and we had a chance to visit his shop.  He has a ton of experience, and was willing to work with us on the project so we don't get overextended.  He has a smaller shop, and only works on a few projects at a time so I don't think the Chevelle will be on the back burner.  He showed us a beautiful (and expensive) '73 Olds that he is working on now.  Someday the Chevelle will be in that like new shape as well. He has loaned us a body cart to use that will be much safer and sturdier than the sawhorse contraption I put together.  Thanks Jack!

 Saturday, Matt (Amanda's husband from work) came over and helped me mock up the motor in the frame.  We installed an LH8 oil pan with a rear sump, I think this comes from a Hummer.  This gives plenty of room for the frame to go under the block.  With the Transdapt motor mounts, the LS1 drops in pretty easily.

 If you have a sharp eye, you will notice we had to take the factory headers off to fit the motor.  They sit very wide on the block, and there was no chance they would fit.  I'll need to find a set that sits tighter on the motor.  Thankfully several companies make headers for this swap, it's just another $700 to spend.

The transmission crossmember was too far forward with the T56.  In the pictures you can see where it would sit slid back 6-7"from the factory position. The engine looks like it sits level in this position, so I think we can modify the factory crossmember to work.  A new tab will need to be welded on to fit the wider T56 mount.  I'll update once we get the motor more permanently mounted as to what we decide.

I purchased a '93-'98 Jeep Grand Cherokee power steering box from AllJeepParts.  It amazed me it bolted in perfectly! The alternator on the GTO motor sits low, and interferes with the power steering box.  I will need to buy new brackets that mount the alternator and A/C compressor high on the block. Another $400 expense. After all this we took the motor back out and will try to get the frame off this week for painting.  When it comes back I can mount up the new suspension and put the motor in for the final (?) time.

Something is out of place...

I'll let you guess.

Good progress over the weekend. The frame is fully stripped down and ready for sandblasting.  I need Jay to weld four holes where body mounts go that have rusted out, but otherwise I think it is in okay shape. Lots of surface rust.  I bought a kit from ABC performance to box the frame; basically four panels that turn the c-channel in the middle and rear of the frame into a box.  It should be much stronger with these in place.

I hit my first impasse with the rear axle today.  The studs for the shocks broke, so those will need removed and replaced.  I don't think that will be a fun job at all.  Also on the A-body 12-bolt rear axle, there are two large bushings at the top to be removed.  They are rusted in place, and probably need torched out.  Not a big deal, expect I don't have a torch! We now have a big pile for the metal recycler. I wonder if they can go in the regular bin? This weeks imponderable: is it better or worse for the environment to rebuild an old car with new technology, or buy a new car?

There is still disassembly on the body to do, but we are close to putting things back together.  I ordered a new oil pan yesterday, and when that is in I will be able to check the fit of the motor.  The engine adapters from Trans-dapt fit nicely (after finding some shorter bolts for the engine mounts).

Out with the old!

 I thought I'd start this week's blog with identification of a 1965 SS, now that I'm down to the body tag on the firewall.  All GM products come with this tag that provides information to the factory how to build the car.  It is also critical if you want to restore a Chevelle back to factory specifications.  This is the tag on my Chevelle:

Starting under General Motors Corporation:

01A: Build date, First week (A) January (01)

ST: Abbreviation for Style

65-: Build year 1965

13837: Fisher Body code for Chevelle Malibu SS sport coupe

KAN: Tells you the car was built in Kansas City, Missouri

9608

TR: Abbreviation for Trim

714-: Seat type and color

N-N: Exterior upper and lower colors, Madeira Maroon

E: Tinted Glass

2: Options from Group 2

L: Muncie 4-speed

P: comfort & convenience group, Type A (Malibu)

(inside day/night mirror, driver side outside mirror, 2-speed wipers, washer, back-up lights, glove box lamp, and bottle w/s washer fluid)

R: radio speaker, rear

5: Options from group 5

W: seat belts, custom deluxe, with retractors

So there you have it, 1965 Chevelle Malibu SS coupe, Madeira Maroon, built in the first week of 1965 right here in Missouri.  Might have even been the first one off the line that year?

There are two 4-speed transmissions found in the Chevelle, Saginaw and Muncie.  I understand the Muncie is the one to have.  You can tell the Muncie by the reverse gear linkage in the rear section.  You can see this as the third arm from the shifter linkage in my transmission, showing it to be the Muncie.

I forgot to write down the engine code before I wrapped it up, so all I know is that it is a 327 V8, with **0 horsepower.  According to Min, this is the 250hp version.  This thing is HEAVY!  I pushed it out into the driveway to wash it off, and it tipped sideways.  It took two of us just to roll it back upright, and the engine hoist to drag it back up the driveway.  My side is sore today. The LS1 has an aluminum block and plastic intake, so it has to be lighter.

Halloween!  I thought the zombie baby was a nice touch.

Yesterday I took a day off from work to get a little more done.  I managed with the help of the lift to get the body up on sawhorses and well supported by 2x4s. I also pulled the engine and shrink wrapped it for long term storage.  The consensus from the Chevelle forum was to keep this in case I ever want to restore the car back to original (or if it goes back to Jay in 50 years).  With the engine hoist this isn't a bad job. I was surprised how heavy the engine was because it was so easy to lift out.  Today's job will be to take more of the suspension apart.  There are lots of broken bolts on the body that will need to be removed.  I'm dreading that job, so will be putting it off as long as possible.

 The engine out and on it's stand (before it broke and more 2x4s added for support). Here it will live.

Our big shock this week was the body estimate.  Mudd came in at $24500 for the body work and paint only.  Another phone estimate confirmed that this may be what we have to expect.  We have a third estimate coming today.  Our budget is $15000 for the body, so I'm not sure what we are going to do.  Kenny Mudd thinks if we do the floors and sandblasting he may be able to swing that.  He seems like a really nice guy, and I would like to work with him.  He is close and local and we have heard good things about his work.  Jay (Jill's brother) has offered to do at least the floors to help with cost, and maybe the whole body work if we have to go that route.  Jay had good training from Hoss, so I know he will do a good job.

On TV you only see the quick take apart and finish.  In real life there are a lot of pieces to take apart and organize, and with one person, it is hard to stay motivated at this stage. It is all reverse progress at this point.  Some of the frame is in worse shape than I thought with more repairs needed where the body mount bushings go.  I shouldn't be surprised since the Chevelle is older now than when I started working on my '53 Chevy truck. (Wow, hadn't thought about that, but when the '53 was started ~1988, it was a young 35 years old at that time.  The Chevelle is almost 47!) I'm really hoping to get the frame to sandblasting soon so I can seen some forward progress to feel like something is getting done.  It's just me so far; I sure with I had that behind the scenes TV crew.  Hopefully I will be through this stage soon.

It's been a busy week at work, so not much progress on the Chevelle.  The pile of parts is slowly getting larger, and I think about as big as it will get.  At least with old parts!  I removed the heater core early in the week, which hopefully if money holds will get replaced with a Vintage Air system.  It will be nice to have A/C on cruises in St. Louis.

I started ordering a few parts, like the radiator support and lights, but I'll mostly wait until the body is back to order the bulk of new parts.  There is a lot of trim on 50's and 60's cars, and I suspect that will take a large chuck of the budget, unless Hoss stored away lots of pieces in the garage in Marion.  Keep your fingers crossed he did.

Today I removed the dash, and hopefully will clean up a few loose end, parts with broken bolts we didn't get to last weekend.  We have a big load for the sandblaster to clean up before I can powdercoat. Olive came out for a few minutes to inspect the car. I don't think she is impressed at this stage, since it did not take her to the park.

 Here is the dash wiring.  Literally, this is 90% of the wiring in the car.  Only the front and rear lights are not shown.  Even with this little, I probably will only use the fuse box.  Everything else needs to be matched up to the LS1.  Isn't it amazing how little electronics were used in the 60's, but so much more than the 50's.  I find it interesting the mix of technologies showing up.  My '53 was all metal and bakelite, plastics weren't in use much at the time.  In '65, there is a mix of aluminum, stainless, steel, and plastics.  You find a few ribbon wires, but still made in a large scale. Nothing like you would see today.  The radio has to weigh five pounds, and it only gets AM.

Everyone asks me how will I get everything back together.  I often wonder that myself, but it's amazing how few parts are needed for a car.  This is all of the interior and some of the trim laid out in my basement.  It isn't that much, and most of it is cosmetic.  Of course, if anyone wants to know what to get me for Christmas - Chevelle trim parts is a good place to start :)

 Here is the interior with just about everything out.  Ready for the body to come off the frame, or at least very close.  Notice the manual vent in the driver's footwell.  If you want air, you don't just push a button.