It makes the world an interesting place when everyone has a different opinion. We have the talking heads on the TV now telling us how they are going to change everything in the country, but they all use the same tired words that candidates of the past use, and across party lines. At least for me there were really only three major options I heard for the floor repair, although there is no consensus, or single right answer for that matter. I asked lots of people and read internet web pages, and you have one group that says replace it all, some say patch, some say patch the big holes and use POR15 on the pinholes. Replacing everything is nice, because you get rid of all of the rust. It is challenging because the body can twist if not properly braced, and you ruin the whole car when that happens. New metal isn't as thick or strong according to some as it comes from Asia (real or opinion?), and the stamping is not precise (this is true). Any option with new metal will require hours to make it fit right. Thus, the middle option to replace rusty pieces where they are needed. You get the strength of new metal, but can retain much of the factory stamping. You won't get all of the rust out where the bracing keeps it hidden. It also takes a lot more time to do small pieces than the whole floor, and you end up with welds everywhere. The cover it up method is easiest, and some of the products out there I hear are really good. They still will never be as strong as metal, and you can coat what you can't get to.
I chose the middle option, as it was best for my skills, I couldn't screw things up, and any ugliness will be hidden underneath the carpet or underbody rustproofing. Plus my time is free to me, and I get to learn more this way (I think...). In total, I replaced the two front floor sections, a piece under the rear seat, a spot under the passenger's seat, and one by the front left body mount.
I did not want to have to do this one, but the bolt here was rusted so badly I could not extract it from below. To get it out, I had to weld a nut to what was left sticking out the top of the cage nut you see, and unscrew it from the inside of the car. Lots of heat and penetrating oil were still necessary. I was able to save the cage nut, so that part was good. In the picture you can see the kind of rust that will be hidden under the old floor. This is one reason the whole floor replacement was suggested. I cleaned up what I could see, and painted inside with rust converting paint as best I could.
This is what you get from the patchwork method. I cut just what I needed from the new floor, and butt welded it in place. With the edges ground down, it looks not bad.
The front body mount on the firewall was rusted beyond saving. I had to cut out a larger access here to get to the cage nut, chisel it out, and weld in a new one (cut from a section of the trunk floor I'm not using). Then butt weld the piece back in place, grind smooth, and we're almost as good as new.
Dave came over for a few more hours and welded in the passenger side floor. We chose to overlap the panels for additional strength here, and welded them solid from both the top and bottom. It isn't the prettiest repair I've seen, but it will be very strong and hidden. The transmission tunnel was left open until we get the frame back. The shifter comes through in a different spot, I think where you see the floor dip down at the back of the replacement panels. This will need to be opened up for the new transmission, then we can weld this area together. At the bottom of the picture you can see where I had to replace under the passenger seat. The metal looked perfect from the top, but had rusted through from underneath where the bracing is. Same procedure as above. Here I cut back until I found solid metal, and used a piece of new floor fit to just what I needed.
We took the motor over to the shop last weekend so they could use it to get the transmission brace properly placed before painting. The frame has been completed and rust proofed, and is just waiting for the brace before it is painted. Looks nice with all of the rust removed, doesn't it?
Sharp eyes may notice the boxing of the frame we asked the shop to do. Originally the frame was an open c-channel from the firewall back. Plates were added for additional strength that will keep the body from twisting from the additional power, and give more overall strength. Cars have abandoned the perimeter frame concept, but you will see new trucks advertised with 'fully boxed frames'. Same idea here. The Chevelle is looking more like a brand new car with the rust quickly disappearing!
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